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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.